... which is news in Kinyarwanda, also used to ask someone how they are. Ciao abantu (people in Kinyarwanda)! I’ve been in my village for over a month now and would like to share some of my observations and experiences with you.
Some cultural differences that I struggle with: Traditionally whistling is only done by men. Unfortunately, I love to whistle but I’ve been trying to stop myself. Snapping is mainly done for babies and animals. I also enjoy snapping. In Rwanda, I am still a girl because there are not separate words for woman and wife. So marital status determines whether or not you are a girl, not age or maturity like in the US. I have tried, with my limited Kinyarwanda, to explain that in the US I am not a girl. Rwandan culture respects women who are married and have children, so it impacts the amount of respect I receive. The word for friend is basically boyfriend/girlfriend, so I have to explain myself when I use it. I like the word friend in English, but in Kinyarwanda I cannot overuse it. I normally call people co-workers instead of friends to avoid confusion. I have not found a word in Kinyarwanda for please, so I just say thank you more often. Additionally, some people in Rwanda consider getting fat to be a good thing, so it is not rude to comment that a person is fatter. Unfortunately, several people have told me lately that I am getting bigger (I shouldn't be getting fat in Africa, right? It must be all of the starches and oil.) It's not fun to hear. I try to explain that in my culture it is rude to comment on a female’s weight.
I’ve been thinking, you become more aware of your impact on the world and how much you use without running water, electricity, garbage removal, etc. I get my water from across the street and pay 20 RWF for each jerry can (a big jug). I pour my water into a bucket for my shower and I highly doubt my showers in the States only required one bucket. I normally charge my computer twice a week, meaning I have about 8 hours of battery time. As a college students, there were definitely days when I was on my computer the whole day- studying, responding to emails, messages, etc. Every time I go online, I have to use a USB modem to connect to the internet. It charges for the amount of data I send and receive, but fortunately there is a “free” (I doubt it) facebook website so I have been able to keep the cost down. I do not think there is a national garbage removal system, people just burn or bury their trash. It makes me more aware of the garbage I am creating, which has been reduced since Rwandans are not as package crazy as we are in the US. There is a national ban on plastic bags which has been nice to see. Instead of having a light at night or a stove/ microwave to cook with, I have a kerosene lamp, kerosene stove, and charcoal stove. I also recently purchased a charcoal iron, when you do not have electricity charcoal is the way to try to still look professional. I have been buying my kerosene in Nyamata, which is about a 30 minute motorcycle ride away because it is cheaper there than it is in my village. If I run out of kerosene, I have some candles to provide some light. I’m adjusting to my house and my village and I’m even finding myself appreciating things I did not think I would.
Every time I want to leave my village I have to take a motorcycle taxi (I’m not allowed to take a bicycle taxi and there are no buses that leave my village.) I have to pay 4,000 Rwandan Francs round trip (the conversion is about 600 RWF=1 dollar). It adds up. Due to the price and everyone in my village noticing my departure and arrival on the motorcycle, my mobility is limited. As far as the goals of the Peace Corps goes, that is a good thing because this experience is not about travel. Rather it is about staying in one place, getting to know that place, and attempting to become a neighbor instead of a guest. Sometimes I hear people referring to me as a guest, I hope with time they realize I cannot be a guest for 2 years (in the US that would be overstaying your welcome, right?).
Some of the best things I have been doing in my village (Kabukuba- think Cuba, said with a Spanish accent) have been taking walks, attending churches, and attending choir at school. Sometimes I take 2 hour walks which mean I get to see more of the area and meet new people along the way. Once a person walked with me for a while and another invited me to sit in her yard with her. I’m trying to make a habit out of exploring the area. Attending church here is important because it helps me to be visible, meet people, and because about 95% of Rwandans are religious. My Christian background makes me more relatable and where someone goes to church is a frequent topic of conversation. One Tuesday, I heard singing after school which caught my attention (as music does). Since then, I have been trying to sing with students on Tuesdays and Thursdays after school. The choir is a small group of Adventist students that gather to sing. They do not have an adult director, but they sound great. Singing helps keep me happy, learn the language, and get to know some students. I also started playing soccer with some of the students last week. It is challenging because of the higher elevation, heat, and because I am one of two girls, but I think it is good for me to run around.
I don’t think I have described umuganda to you all. The last Saturday of the month, Rwandans gather in the morning to cut grass, improve ditches, work on school property, etc. I’ve heard sometimes the umuganda projects might be building a house or a school. I guess it is a law that everyone does umuganda (which means pillar in Kinyarwanda), but I have not witnessed it being enforced. Supposedly there is a fine you should pay if you do not do umuganda and some rich people choose to pay instead of participating. I’ve wondered how well umuganda would work in the US, I could see the majority of people not taking part or not wanting to. Maybe I am being pessimistic. When I was in Nyanza, there were never enough tools, so I normally picked up garbage. We’ve only had one umuganda since I’ve been in Kabukuba. I used a cupa cupe to cut grass. It is a tool with a sharp edge on the bottom. For many people, umuganda that day was watching me do umuganda.
All in all, I would say I’m adjusting to life in Kabukuba. Weeks have been going by quickly and I have a few friends. My closest friends are a wonderful family: a mother and father who have a 3-year-old girl and a month old girl. They are very positive people and like me, love to laugh. I’m happy to have had met them and happy that they have been so welcoming to me.
Murakoze! Thank you for reading! I’m heading off to bed in a little, so good night! Sweet dreams!
